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By HARRIET RIDLEY

WINTER breaks are usually associated with skiing. You know the deal: exploring snowy peaks, breathing fresh mountain air - and enduring long queues to the chair lifts.

But what if there were an even better way to enjoy mountain thrills, without every man and his dog joining in? What if you didn't even have to put on a pair of skis? Enter Andalucian Trail Tours.

Their off-road holidays in Spain cater for all levels of riding. They bring you the thrill of riding a motorcycle in faraway mountain passes and valleys where no other tourists dare venture.

There are two tours on offer.

For the complete novice or occasional green-lane rider, the Scenic Tour takes in the Andalucian hilly countryside.

Tour guide Andy has a stable of novicefriendly Honda CRF230s that are perfect for less experienced off-road riders, thanks to their low seat height, gentle power and light weight.

We tried this on our first day, turning up at Andy's garage on top of a picturesque village set in hills above Malaga.

I brought my own kit, but Andy supplies you with everything if you prefer.

He briefs novices on off-road riding technique before setting off across Andalucia's dirt tracks, gentle hills and olive groves, taking in the smells - mostly wild thyme - and scenery.

It's the first week of January and yet the weather's glorious, with deep blue skies and sunshine. We stop in a typical Spanish restaurant for lunch, laughs and banter.

You can tailor the trip, spending as many days as you wish off- road, with days off in-between to lounge by the pool or nearby beaches. But Andy makes the going progressively tougher as you find your off-road feet.

We were all experienced so went straight for last-day stuff, before graduating to big boys' territory - the Terrain Tour.

This is for intermediate to experienced riders only. Don't even think about it if you're anything less!

The base is a hotel in Competa, an hour and a bit's drive from Andy's and further in the mountains. Trevor, also known as the Flying Carrot, heads up this adventure, which starts from his house backing on to the Almijara Sierras.

He uses bikes suited to the much harder Terrain - Beta 450s. These tall enduro beasts wrap KTM's 450 engine in a superb chassis and will take you anywhere.

Still, at barely 5 foot 6 inches, I fit them perfectly and only run out of leg a couple of times, resulting in silly tumbles and great mirth from my companions!

We immediately hit the winding dirt tracks that climb deep into the mountains.

It's tempting to open the throttle and give the bikes a caning - except the tracks are narrow with a mountain wall to one side and a sheer drop to the other!

As we stop for a drink, I'm gob-smacked by my surroundings. It's like being on top of the world.

You can see Gibraltar from up here and there's not another soul in sight. Apart from the odd sheep or goat, that is.

The terrain varies from dirt tracks to rocky riverbeds, mountain climbs and even sand tracks with whoops and berms, almost like a never-ending purpose-built motocross circuit.

We pass a couple of steep, tricky climbs that the braver, more skilled riders in my group tackle.

These include Donna Gray, a former British off-road champion and photographer Ian Cobby, who's God on two wheels.

I stick to the less vertical climbs but even here I'm amazed by how capable my bike is.

It sails across any obstacle Mother Nature throws at it as if the tyres are made of glue.

The second day of our Terrain Tour takes us cross-country to the coast. There's more road-riding involved here, all on racetrack- smooth, sweeping ribbons of Tarmac.

Anadalucian Trail Tours never place you in a mixed ability group with people you don't know.

But if a group of friends block-book with some more skilled than others, Trevor takes them here because you can make it as hard or as easy as you want.

If you're up for the challenge, chase the Flying Carrot up and down the climbs.

Otherwise follow the gravel track the long way round.

I've had some spectacular motorcycling adventures, but this ranks among my favourites.

If you've never been off-road, it's a great way to learn while savouring the best of Spain's scenery. If you're experienced offroad, then be prepared for some thrilling riding in unforgettable surroundings.

TRAVEL FILE

Standard Terrain Tours, which run daily throughout the year, start from pounds 142.50. This includes the use of a Beta RR 450 enduro motorcycle, all protective clothing, motor insurance, fuel, lunch and the exclusive use of a guide.

If you want to book a package, two days riding with three nights accommodation starts from pounds 349, including airport transfers. Prices do not include flights, so shop around for low-fare deals.

For more details, and news of special offers, check out website www.andaluciantrailtours.com, or call 01727 858269.

Flights to the nearest airport, Malaga, were last week from pounds 140 return from Birmingham. Upon arrival you can arrange to be met by a company representative or make your own way uphill by hire car.

For general information on the area, head for www.andalucia.com or call 01727 858269.

(c) 2008 Sunday Mercury; Birmingham (UK). Provided by ProQuest Information and Learning. All rights Reserved.